Tropic like its hot 🌴
‘Does anyone know how bad the Norovirus outbreak on Koh Tao is?’ one message on a hostel group chat read. ‘ About 70% of people I know on the island have it’ read the first reply. These were just a few of the messages I was reading whilst on the ferry to Koh Tao. A few other backpackers I was with on Koh Samui had gone a day earlier. One had described the water in the hostels as ‘yellow’ and smelling of ‘sewage’. Was I doomed?
A well trodden route, it is very straightforward to get the ferry from Koh Samui to Koh Tao. If your accommodation doesn’t offer a travel desk then the main streets a crammed full of travel shops that can sort things out. Alternatively, if you are a risk taker, you can rock up at the pier on the day and hope there is space on a ferry. It is a short journey that only takes an hour or so. However, it can be very choppy, evidenced by the many attendants offering sick bags and armed with ‘just-in-case’ mops and buckets.
Koh Tao was uninhabited until the 1940’s and was originally used as a prison for political prisoners. A Royalist uprising in Koh Tarutao during the mid 1930’s aimed to give more power back to the Thai Royal family. As a result, Koh Tao was used as a prison island for around 100 political prisoners. Some luxury! Apart from being imprisoned by Norovirus, there is now no evidence of a military prison and the lush, tropical island has instead become more famous for ‘paddies’ (The diving certificate not the Irish).
Expectation
Famed as a tropical paradise, Koh Tao is a hub for diving and snorkelling. The island attracts roughly 500,000 visitors annually emphasising its popularity for water the based activities. Visitors come from all walks of life with he vast majority being backpacker. However, there are also tourists of all ages with many young families also visiting.
Advertised as the cheapest place in the world to do your PADI (diving certificate) I expected every other building to be a dive school. I was completely wrong: it’s every building!
The stunning beaches with lush green jungles in the backdrop characterise the tropical paradise. A gentle ocean breeze, warm climate and laid back atmosphere add to the scenery to create an idyllic getaway. You can see why so many people visit each year!
I snorkelled on day one on Sai Daeng beach, pictured above. The aim was to go diving later on in the stay. The waters did not disappoint. Within minutes of snorkelling I had already seen a baby black tip reef shark, sea turtles and an abundance of fish. The real beauty comes from the fact that most of the beaches offer similar experiences. The place is truly five-star brilliant.
The island also hosts a bi-weekly jungle party. Luckily, I survived without catching the virus. However, two Essex girls I was with fell victim to the bug after the event. The same fate befell and American backpacker I had spent the day with. Was I an unknowing spreader?
A short taxi ride up into the hills opened the door into a different side of Koh Tao. Any party can be good fun but the otherworldly feel of the dark jungle adds hugely to the thrills. The music ranged from sing-a-long ABBA classics to the more hardcore, monotonal, thudding techno music. All you need to do is choose your stage. The party is a definite recommendation for those going to the island. Just remember to where sturdy shoes as there is a lot of walking involved.
But the enjoyment was all to change…
Did you know…📚
Koh Tao only spans 21km squared which is roughly the size of Luton in England.
Quiz Time…❓
Answer will be at the end of the blog
The Monsoon ‘rains’ supreme ☔
Reality
Picturesque accessible beaches, abundant sea life, and a very sociable atmosphere. The panic of potentially catching the Norovirus vomit bug had faded to the back of my mind. I was in paradise. However, it only took a few minutes for all that to change.
Us Brits are weaned on rain. Evidence the array of words and adjectives the English language has created: drizzle, hail, mist, bucketing-down, cats-and-dogs.... But not monsoon rain. I was at a bar with a few friends when it started to drizzle. Luckily, I had anticipated a bit of rain so brought an umbrella with me just in case. The huge volume of rain is what I hadn’t factored in. After an hour or so at the bar, I turned to look outside and had to double take. Had I drunk too much or did that river use to be the main road through the island. In the space of a few minutes we had gone from walking to wading. The sudden nature of the unremitting rains , their enormity and the flooding could only be described as biblical. Just look at this video...
The next day more rain, then more. It continued without even a seconds break. The rains even got heavier and the flooding got worse. Anyone seen Noah? Getting soaked in almost knee deep water was just a rite of passage to eat lunch, dinner or get something from the shops. However, life went on. For the locals this is normal and none of the restaurants or shops seemed to close. Help was on hand at every point. Ropes were suspended across the roads to aid people needing to cross and makeshift sandbag pavements were hastily created near every deep puddle.
The rains stopped me from diving and kept me off the beaches. Yet, to witness Tropical Storm Eric from the inside was still an experience. I had always wondered what it would be like to experience a flood so I’m glad I floated around. The local shop keepers probably aren’t as enthusiastic as I am though.
What’s fast food like in Asia? 🍔🍟
As I sign off in Thailand, I will give an honourable mention to the bold but understated 7/11 toastie. The stealth bomber shaped meal is a staple for most backpackers in the country. They taste amazing:
Regardless of the monsoon, Koh Tao is a must visit. The chilled way of life and the beautiful scenery are all you need. Supplement this with great diving schools and accessible beaches for snorkelling and it truly is a paradise.
Next stop Malaysia. I will be making my way down the east coast and hope to explore Langkawi, Georgetown, the Cameron Highlands, Kuala Lumpur, and Malacca. I look forward to telling you all about my experiences there…
Until next time
T
Answer to the quiz: It means ‘Turtle Island’
Almost up to your knees in it Tom. Here comes the rain again.... enjoy. BnK