Under Lock and Kyoto
Kyoto, Osaka, Hiroshima
(30 March 2025) Kyoto: Our eyes were glued to the window. Hoping for a glimpse of Mt. Fuji. The dulled shriek of the shinkansen (bullet train) whirled in the background. We arrived in Kyoto. As did many other tourists. A hello kitty train had parked up on the opposite platform. There was a sudden rush of people scrambling to get their phones out in time for a photo. We were blessed it sunshine yet it was cold and crisp. The morning dew had created a low evaporative mist.
Nearby our hotel was Nijo Castle. The former residence of the Emperor before the Meiji restoration. Coaches were systematically lined up along the side of the road. We approached a set of regal wooden gates. ‘ You want to place pin on your country?’ A worker had flagged us down. A large map of the world covered a chalk board. Pins were placed sporadically all over the map. Britain was blanketed by pins. My sister and I placed one on England and Australia respectively. A representation of our dual heritage. ‘We’re also a quarter Mexican’ I joked. The worker awkwardly reached out to give me another pin. I waved it away, smiling as I did so. The gates themselves were a wooden and dark colour. Almost black. Patchworks of gold plating covered the timber in parts. We kicked our shoes off before entering the building. Streams of tourists flowed steadily through the corridors. Thin paper sliding doors and windows surrounded the walkway on either side. Gold paint on the ceiling was beginning to fade. As were the decorative shapes. Mythical looking tigers took up residence on the walls of the chambers. According to one sign they were painted from both verbal description and a fur skin rug. Outside tourists had smothered the one cherry blossom that was flowering before the rest.
We wondered into the city after checking into our hotel. A large river bisected the old town. Narrow walkways are bracketed by wooden houses characters by their dark cedar frames. Bamboo curtains cover the exterior windows. A small stream ran parallel with the main river through the old town. Old cherry blossoms were hunched over the banks. Plagues of tourists made the streets feel even more cramped. It was tough to find a restaurant to eat in that evening. Most were full or booked up until late. We eventually found somewhere. Low stools faced an open kitchen. We were right next to the entrance. The occasional curious tourist would let in a frosty draft. Some gyozas and a bowl of tripe noodle soup soon warmed us up. After dinner we pottered back to the hotel. Intrigue pulled us into a nearby shop. It was lined with toy vending machines. They were stacked up high and formed a labyrinth around the shop. Inside each machine was a plastic egg with a collectible toy. The place was brimming with locals. My sister came away with a lion shaped watch. I left empty handed.
Matcha made in heaven
(31 March 2025) Kyoto: We were up early to go to a bamboo forest. As we caught the bus across town it appeared swarms of other tourists had the same idea. Again it was sunny with an accompanying chill. A small town the preceded the forest. Hello Kitty and Snoopy shops had been purposefully placed with tourists in mind. My sister fell victim to the gifts on offer.
There was a stark contrast between the forest itself, bordered off, serene, and quiet, and the crowded pathway of tourists vying for the perfect photo spot. Some of whom were dressed in Kimonos. We walked towards a train station via a path along a river valley. The tops of cherry blossom trees dotted the canopy on the other side.
Back in town we browsed a local supermarket for something to eat. Most of the ready to eat lunches were light and perfectly balanced with meat and vegetables. No mayonnaise soaked sandwiches which are the norm in the west. After regaining some strength we headed to another shrine. A queue had formed near walkway lined with red torii gates. Tourists were stood waiting for their ‘candid’ photo of the tunnel. Fed up of waiting behind queues of tourists we scurried back into town for some dinner. One restaurant caught our eye. It was busy. With one exception. No tourists. It must be good if the locals eat there. An elderly lady spoke broken English and walked us through the menu. We pondered a bit before ordering. Baby squid arrived post miso soup. Small dishes comprised of local seasonal vegetable as well as chicken and lentils.
(01 April 2025) Kyoto: We had arrived at Nara park. Where the deer and human worlds collide. A 30 minute train from Kyoto and we were rubbing shoulders with. Why did the deer cross the road? One particular deer knew to use the zebra crossing. Waiting patiently at the crossing for the cars to stop. Local traffic acted like it was normal. We wandered through the park before getting to another shrine. More deer roamed around as if they were tourists. A few stopped and looked around at the sites. The same could not be said of the human population. Large swathes were more focused on juvenile cherry blossom tree then unique architecture.
We arrived back in Kyoto as the sun was setting. We trudged up a hill reaching the top as the sun had ducked behind some distant hills. There was still enough light to have panoramic views of the city. Behind us an intimidating pagoda was emblazoned in red lights. Turning the shrine into a dramatic hellscape. Back in town locals were crammed into a Korean BBQ restaurant. We ducked out of the cold and into the warmth of the grill.
Sushi sells sea shells….
(02 April 2025) Osaka: Our hotel had a bamboo interior and matched the serenity of a spa. We were habitually early for check in. Our watches must have run ahead of schedule. To kill time, we walked to a famous shopping mall. Immersing ourselves in the rush of city life. Salary men in gilets hunted for lunch in packs of 3 or 4. Overflowing smoking cabins showcased the stress of city life. Popular franchises such as Lego, Godzilla, and Mario had large stores in the mall. A purposeful lack of signage had us lost. Resisting the temptation to buy anything we headed back to the hotel. At night we went on the hunt for some food. A small canal carved its way through a colourful corridor of electronic billboards. Every bit of real estate was postered with epilepsy inducing adverts. A kaleidoscopic smudge of reflected light danced in the wake of the boats. We slalomed our way through the bustling night life. A nearby sushi restaurant was contrastingly quiet. We watched as the chefs prepped our food. Finely slicing raw fish for our delight.
(03 April 2025) Osaka: I walked over to Osaka castle towards the end of the morning. A horse with no name by America rang through my headphones. Work duties had may sister confined to the hotel. I walked parallel to the river. Passing by an old British tea house on my left. A moat surrounded a walled fortress. The sun highlighted every small feature. I navigated my way through the legions of tourists. Centred in the middle of the courtyard was a single castle. Propped up on a bed of stone. It was shaped like a pyramid. Clear stratigraphical layers were broken up by sloped outer roofs. Gold decoration periodically decorated the white façade. I messaged my sister on my way back. I hadn’t stopped thinking about the British tea house. Inside was wooden and creaky. Befitting of something old and British. Signs signifying ‘teas of the orient’ were surrounded by Paddington bears and stuffed animals dressed as beefeaters. ‘How many person?’ ‘Two’ I held up the peace sign whilst saying so. ‘10 minute wait. Ok?’ I sat smiling in the stair well beneath a large British flag. I hummed the lyrics of Rule Britannia whilst waiting for my sisters imminent arrival. Darjeeling tea, scones (with jam and cream (cream to be layered first)), cucumber sandwiches, and a victoria sponge cake was the order. I was in heaven.
That afternoon we were lost for things to do. There was a large Ferris wheel atop the mall we had been in the day before. We were crammed into a small pod having expected the spaciousness of the London eye. Lift off. The first few moments were serene and calm. We floated slowly up above the larger buildings. Moving inversely to the setting sun. Our egos were squashed as we reached the top. The sheer drop combined with close quarters had us clinging to the sides. There was a sigh of relief as it swung back round to the terminus. The mild panic had made us hungry. We had a small dinner near the hotel before calling it a night.
Did you know?
Kyoto was the imperial capital of Japan for well over 1000 years up until the Meiji period.
(04 April 2025) Hiroshima: It was sunny when we arrived. We chucked our bags in the luggage hold of the hotel before wandering down to the memorial. It was a short walk from our hotel. There was a small concrete arch at the back of a large industrial looking courtyard. Through it you could see a pond, with a flame at the end, and the iron skeleton of a domed roof. On the far side of the pond was a slow moving river. We sat on steps that led down to the waters edge. In prime view of the Genbaku dome. A building near the hypocentre that survived the blast. 15 minutes of basking in the sun raced by. We crossed the river and found a quiet street. A small plaque on a modern building indicated the hypocentre. Very few tourists knew it was there. Our mood had dropped. The museum itself is a stark reminder of the horrors of war. First person stories, paintings and photos highlight the horrors of the blast. The exit took us back to the river. Cherry blossoms in full bloom lined the banks. We headed into town to cheer ourselves up. A packed elevator had us imitating sardines in a can. Stickers, posters and graffiti took up every inch of the interior. The doors reeked opened. Everyone flooded out into a food hall. We inspected all the counters before realising they were all serving the same thing. Okonomiyaki. It is a famous dish in Hiroshima. Layers of noodles, cabbage, and pork and fried on a hot plate. Much like the elevator we were crammed into a small corner. Rubbing shoulders with other diners. An early night beckoned before an early train.
More photos below:
