Naoshima. Now you don't
Naoshima island and Tokyo
(5 April 2025) Naoshima: The ferry terminal was minimal. A small indoor area with a ticket office and a vending machine that served coffee. Our luggage became the makeshift furniture. A queue was scrambled together as soon as the ferry was in sight. The calm waters echoed the weather. The ferry docked at Naoshima. A small island of the coast of Okayama. Known for art galleries that dot the island. By the dock a large black pumpkin with orange spots stood looking out over the bay. A sign of things to come.
We crammed our luggage onto a small shuttle bus. The road to our air bnb involved a steep climb. A small bungalow was sunk below the hill top. An overgrown vegetable patch surrounded it. ‘We have heated carpet here. There is also a heater in every room. Extra blankets are in the cupboard. Have you guys booked for dinner?’ ‘Urrmm not yet’ our increasing inflection emphasised our naivety. ‘Everywhere will book up. The best restaurant on the island is close by. Do you want me to book?’ ‘Yes please’. He rattled through the other formalities of the island with ruthless efficiency.
We wondered back down to the main harbour to hire bikes. The island was small and easily navigable. Paper maps were included with the bikes. They marked the different galleries. The first incline made me glad bikes were electric. It was fast becoming evening. One or two of the smaller galleries were still open. The first had sunken numbers lit up in a small pool. A small sculpture sat in the garden of the second. The road took us down to the beach. A large stone torii gate stood at the beach entrance. It had been decorated with rocks and shells. It was stood in a liminal space between mediums. Where land meets water. Highlighting the transition into another world. The second of two large pumpkins - this time yellow with black dots - stood at the end of a concrete jetty. A few tourists were taking photos. This time with more artistic grace than the rabble of iPhone users were used to. The beach itself was largely empty. Small grass reeds grew between the sand and the road. The flat water lapped gently against the shore. We headed back to the air bnb as the sun was setting. A small farming plot, no bigger than 100sqm, lay between our rental and the restaurant. We sat on the floor either side of a low lying table. Small plates of food fought for space. Grilled octopus was by far the favourite.
(6 April 2025) Naoshima: Refreshed after a good nights sleep I went for a run in the morning. The undulating landscape made running all the more tiring. I stopped at the top of one hill. The sun shone over the bay for a great view. I took some of the back roads on my descent. A large paper bin on the roadside overshadowed surrounding trees. Once back we picked up some breakfast from the only supermarket on the island. Wasting no time we headed straight to see some art. There was a mess of parked bikes by a fork in the road. No bikes were allowed past this point. A coastal road snaked down the hillside. There was a small gallery on our left as we walked down. Another instalment was sunk in a small hollow on our right. Both were put on the to do list. We powered down the hill. Time was of the essence. We had to stick to schedule due to our allotted viewing. As is the case with the bigger galleries on the island. The gallery had a rustic concrete interior. Dark corridors surrounded a courtyard. Rectangular windows offered views into an purposefully unkempt lawn. Small abstract photos were spaciously laid out on the walls. We exited via a café which overlooked a pond. Two matcha teas were ordered. Two differing opinions were held. Whilst my sister claimed hers was good, I thought otherwise. Its earthy, seaweed like taste still haunts me.
We trudged back up the hill. A side road diverted us down towards the beach. Large vertical rocks, akin to a neolithic stone circle, surrounded a jacuzzi. We sauntered through the mystic artwork to the beach beyond. Further a long the wild beachgrass suddenly became short and manicured. In the middle was a metallic arch suspended over a small runway. Further into the hollow a sandstone boulder had been placed in from of a darkened slab. A small path led back up to the main road. We ducked into the gallery we passed on our way down. Hundreds of small buddha statues greeted us. They were laid out in the garden like grave stones. As if it a military memorial. As we walked further in the buddhas were replaced with shiny metallic spheres. Inside, the walls sloped inwards towards the floor. Creating a narrow walkway. There were more shiny metallic spheres in the main atrium. Placed to either side of a set of stairs which let to an opening in the ceiling. More appointments meant it was a fleeting visit.
Chichu gallery is one of the main galleries on the island. Claude Monet, James Turrell, and Walter De Maria all have exhibits in the gallery. We entered another rustic concrete building. This one was akin to a villains house from the James Bond films. The main courtyard was lattice of rhomboids. Walls and staircases appeared to bisect each other. Almost like one massive origami piece. We began at the James Turrell exhibits. A square room was hidden the other an unassuming corridor. The floor matched the concrete interior of the building the white walls did not. The was a large hole in the ceiling. Light cascaded in to create a tranquil environment. Birds were chirping. Beauty in simplicity. The queue had died down for his second piece of art. We were lined up in the dark facing a set of stairs. They led up to what looked like a cinema screen. Suddenly a light show began and we were ushered forward. Arms were braced for sudden impact with a wall. To our surprise is was not a screen but an opening into another room. There was a gradual slope down. The lights created the illusion of a steep drop off at the end. Monet was next on the agenda. The exhibition was minimal. Confined to one small room. It was all that was needed after a sensory overload. A few paintings from his water lilies series were lit by perfect natural light. The Walter De Maria exhibit was arguably my favourite. Ladies by the entrance reminded us of ‘no photo please’. Natural light flowed down onto a broad staircase. There was a giant black orb in the middle. Vertical Gold bars were systematically placed against the walls. The room looked like it belonged on Mount Olympus. We peddled frantically down the hill. Our bikes needed returning by 6:30pm. We ventured back to the same restaurant for dinner. Echoing our previous order. A long travel day awaited us tomorrow.
(7 April 2025) Tokyo: It was a long travel day back to Tokyo. A ferry, bus, and train meant we arrived in the early evening. After a quick check in we headed to Shinjuku. Hitting the post work rush. The streets were crowded with salarymen in black and navy suits. Likely meeting friends for a post work beer or food. Bright lights dazzled every side street. We ventured into a vintage camera store in search of a bargain. The shop owner personified his old and fragile camera collection. As did his clients. We strolled around the bustling streets. Taking in everyday life in Japan. Hunger consumed us. A disappointing bowl of ramen finished us off for the day. Bed beckoned.
(8 April 2025) Tokyo: We split up in the morning. I needed to go to get a vaccine for onward travel whilst my sister was keen to visit an exhibition. We met up at Zojo - Ji Temple under the watchful eye of Tokyo tower. A stark contrast between old and new. The costly prices and wait times at the tower meant we skipped the viewing platform. Uneo park had been highly recommended to both of us. An underground train across town delivered us nearby. Cherry blossoms lined a pathway next to small lake. Locals and tourists were pouting and posing for the perfect Instagram photo. Boyfriends and husbands were reluctantly taking photos of their partners. We sat lakeside admiring the majority of people engrossed in their phones. Barely anyone was staring out of the marsh like scenery with cherry blossoms hanging over the lake. The vaccine had wiped me out which resulted in an early bedtime.
(9 April 2025) Tokyo: Final day in Japan. We initially chose the day before to visit Mt Fuji. Bad weather forced our hand. A good decision as it turned out. With limitless neighbourhoods to stroll we decided to start in Roppongi. Ducking into cafes for teas and small pastries. Around midday we went up to the top of Roppongi Hills. A modern skyscraper cross shopping mall. It was much cheaper and quieter than Tokyo tower. With the added bonus of being able to see the tower itself. A crisp clear day meant far reaching views. The immense scale of the worlds largest city was clear to see. As were the distant mountains, of which Fuji was apart of.
My sister had discovered a small private park nearby. A small entry fee was required. Worth it for some peace and quiet. A few elderly people were sat on benches gazing over a small lake. Mimicking their behaviour we sat on a bench by the waters edge. Soft shell turtles occasionally poked their heads up above the surface. We sat reminiscing of our time in Japan. My sister was off back home the next day. I was off to Hong Kong.